2008 Spring Tea Harvest Travel Log

The Hunt for China’s Domestic Grade Teas

March 30

We enter China through Fuzhou,a once great port city located on the southeastern coast. Faintly reminiscent of its glory days of some 300 years past, this aged city still acts as a hub for tea commerce for Fujian Province. Its arguable central location means Fuzhou’s tea merchants reach out to both the southern and northern regions of the province. The tea business here is thriving. But for all the activity one can observe, gaining access to the tea is wholly another matter.

As we arrive by taxi, the city is shrouded in a heavy mist and the air is quite cool. One quickly understands what the Chinese mean when they say this region is perfect for tea. It is hard to recall another place where the air is so moist and chilled in the night yet one can sense the coming warm air. Contrasts of cool and wet air followed by hot daytime temperatures are what make great teas. However, by all appearance we are early. Rain the next day only serves to confirm this. There is no work at the farms when the weather is like this.

March 31

Perhaps there is no fool like an American. Our Chinese partners enjoy reminding us that they had advised to wait until April 6 to come to China. The tea would be late this year, no need to arrive early they consistently stated. Evidenced by the number of samples that are presented in the first few hours in the shops and tea markets, this advice seems well served.

However, Silk Road Teas has always been one to play the early card in the search for premium teas. And, in the course of the first day, we begin to find some interesting early-pick teas. A Mao Feng varietal, Mao Jian, provides a rich green leaf and subtle vegetal notes. And a glimmer of what is to come. That lot is in our China warehouse now.

Later, a wonderful Bi Luo Chun (Green Snail Spring), of the highest quality is found. This lot surely would never leave the shores of China given the current domestic demand for this grade. This is the reward for traveling the great distance. Being on the ground creates the brief opportunity to procure one of this country’s truly wonderful teas. The wonderful delicate curled leaves are steeped and tasted and then a price settled upon. This lot will be available in the states soon.

Outside, a light rain falls through the heavy mist. The flow of teas to the market will continue to be sparse. But, with the small glimpse we had today, we know we are on the right path.